AFRICA WINS AGAIN

Nothing is easy in Africa.

We took a taxi (at a cost of $20) to the airport for our flight to Cape Town only to discover upon arrival that our flight was not departing from Livingstone Airport in Zambia, but rather from Victoria Falls Airport in Zimbabwe, just over the nearby border. We made a mad dash by taxi ($30) to the border, where we were dumped with our bags. We signed out of Zambia and grabbed another taxi ($10) through the 2-mile no man’s land between the two countries. We were once again let out of the taxi (with our bags) at the Zim border, signed in to Zimbabwe ($60 for two visas), and then, bags in tow, grabbed yet another taxi to the airport($30). In about 20 minutes, we finally arrived, and barely made it in time for our flight. We were charged for overweight bags ($40), but were at least bumped up to Business Class as all economy seats were taken.

We were starving. But the airport shelves were bare – completely, horribly bare. Except for ½ bottle of scotch and a couple of cans of soda the bar was empty. The “Duty Free” shop had 3 bottles of perfume and a couple of tourist knickknacks – everything, was the same price - $10. Yosy managed to find the only bag of potato chips, apparently in the entire country, in a kiosk that pretended to sell food. It was all they had.

Thank God for Business Class. As the only travelers in the front of the British Airways plane, we were served all kinds of good things – fresh salad, cheese, (CHEESE! Haven’t seen real cheese in 6 weeks), chocolate, crackers, dried fruits. Gourmet dining. Everything tastes so delicious.

But the inconveniences we suffered were all worth it because we saw Victoria Falls (“The Smoke that Thunders”) from the air. The mist was shooting up hundreds of feet into the sky. It was hard to know where the water smoke ended and the clouds began. The Falls are massive, and I now believe that the most powerful thing on earth is water.

We have only 1 ½ hours in Johannesburg to get our luggage, pass through immigration and customs, and make it to our gate for the flight to Cape Town. I’m quickly losing confidence that things will go as planned today.

MONKEYS AND ZEBRAS AND CROCS (Oh My!)

I failed to mention in my last entry, that I did finally venture into the allegedly croc and bilharia-infested Lake Malawi. It was late afternoon and we had spent the day walking up and down the beach. Yosy and I befriended a local vendor (it only cost us a t-shirt) who gave us a private tour of the few villages that sit right on the shore front. We went into homes, had conversations with the locals and even played a few games with the kids. Yosy helped one of the local fisherman pull his boat, a hollowed-out tree trunk, onto land. The villages were spotless. Women actually sweep the sand around their straw huts to get rid of any debris that washes up. I had passed the villages the day before on a late-afternoon jog. As always, Mzungus (white people) are like celebrities. All along my run people waved and children ran to greet me and hold my hand - some even ran along with me for a few hundred feet. When the run was over, I knew I had to return and meet some of these people. Our vendor-cum-tour guide was our entree to their world. These Africans thrive in spite of their governments, who do absolutely nothing for them - they have no water, no sewer, no roads, no sidewalks. There can be as many as 70 kids in one classroom. Healthcare is practically non-existent. But the Kenyans, Ugandans, Rwandans, Tanzanians and Zambians, manage to live, not just exist, despite the failures of their leaders.

Anyway, it was late afternoon and I was so hot. We had an impromptu game of volleyball on the beach and I couldn't take the heat anymore. The lake was calling me. I dove in and swam and swam and swam. The water was quiet and cool. And the crocs were otherwise engaged. As for the bilharzia worm - a simple test and pill will cure that when I get home, if needed.

Two mornings ago someone accidentally left the gate open to the hotel property where we were staying in Lusaka, the capital of Zambia. We had just finished breakfast and were preparing to leave when a small herd of Zebra wandered in and among the camp grounds. We were so close to them we could practically pet them. It was amazing. The night before some monkeys were sitting just outside our door. I was certainly more surprised than they when our paths crossed.

We are now in Livingstone (named for THE Dr. Livingstone, I presume). Victoria Falls are only 2500 feet from our hotel. The Falls are called The Smoke That Thunders in the the local language - and for good reason. In our walk around the Falls today we got drenched. They are so huge (second biggest in the world) that the volume of water produces thick mist - so thick that the Falls are not even visible unless and until there is a break in the mist and the sun shines on them. There is a very wet, slippery path opposite the Falls, across a gorge that is only a few hundred feet from all that falling water. The path runs along the gorge's rim, with no handrails. I cannot believe that some tourist has not slipped and fallen into the whirlpool below. The Falls are huge and wide and go on forever. They span the border of Zambia and Zimbabwe. The path is so close to the Falls that the spray of the water crashing into the gorge creates torrential, unrelenting, unceasing, rain in certain areas. Although we were wearing TWO rain ponchos, we were completely drenched - from head to foot. The smokey mist was so dense, and the roar was so loud we were overwhelmed. Glimpses of the Falls were mesmerizing. We just stood and watched for long stretches of time without moving.

I was very level-handed and mature today. Instead of doing the bungee jump from a bridge that spans the gorge into what is known as the Boiling Pot, below, I opted to do the zip line that goes across the gorge just below the Falls themselves. I was suspended 700 feet above the swirling water, with the thunder echoing from the cliffs, and simply sailed across. There was a perfectly round (yes, round) rainbow just below me, framing the whirlpool. I was terrified at first, but then relaxed and enjoyed the experience, which was quite like sailing in mid-air.

I have been starved for some protein since I've been here, eating no meat and only eggs, every now and then. So, yesterday, for dinner, I had crocodile appetizer. Delicious - it tasted like a cross between chicken and shrimp tempura.

Our hotel is right on the Zambesi River. Our room, with balcony,is gorgeous and although we can see the smoke of the Falls, (which rises hundreds of feet in the air), we can't hear its thunder.

We had a dinner boat ride on the Zambesi and saw some hippos. Ho hum. No big deal anymore to see wildlife. They are all around us - monkeys in the trees above our heads (or on the walkway), large spiders which make their nets in the unlikeliest of places, giraffes only outside the gates, and crocs on the dinner plate.

We are still partying with the group - We are feeling separation anxiety as we prepare to leave tomorrow morning for our flight to Cape Town.

This trip has been magical. I would stay if I didn't have kids, a dog, and bills to pay.

ZAMBIA

We drove 12 hours yesterday from Lilongwe, the capital of Malawi, to the outskirts of Lusaka, the capital of Zambia. It is the first "real" city I've seen in 6 weeks - or more accurately, the city that most resembles a "real" city. There are sidewalks, hi-rises, traffic lights (and traffic) and shopping malls. I feel so civilised. Only 4 more days to Victoria Falls and the end of the overland trip. Yosy and I then fly to Cape Town for 3 days then home.

I can feel that the trip is winding down. And, its very sad.