KITCHEN DUTY

Peeling potatoes for 23 people in the dark and almost-rain, after a long drive on dirt roads, even if they are a brilliant rust color, filled with potholes and roaming cows, is not fun. But Queen Elizabeth National Park is beautiful and, before the Ugandan and Rwandan poachers almost decimated the wildlife, was the second best game farm in Africa. Protected for a decade now, the animals are returning. (see photos)

We took a boat ride on the Kachinga Channel, a natural sliver of water connecting to the two great western lakes of Uganda (Albert and George) that are shared with the Congo. Hippos, rhinos, and crocs were everywhere (see photos).

Tonight I upgraded (again). Good thing. I have finally realized after 7 wet nights here, that rain at night, generally after midnight, is as common as the rising sun. The water however, gave out before I could shower (or use the bathroom). I gave the “owner” a lesson in capitalism and the need to satisfy the customer and all that jazz and he finally agreed to give me the room for half price – I paid $10 (with towel). I haven’t showered now for 3 days, which may not seem like a lot, but the roads are dusty, the bus, by now, filthy, and my clothes are dirty. Thank God for hair scrunchies.